How to properly cool the system unit. Proper cooling of the system unit

Cooling various components is one of the favorite topics of overclockers (though not only them). Good ventilation of the case is of great importance here - after all, by reducing the temperature in it by at least a couple of degrees, we will reduce the temperature of all the elements inside by the same amount. Unfortunately, I have not yet come across a more or less accurate method for calculating housing ventilation. But in abundance, general recommendations wander from article to article, which from frequent use have become bronzed and are no longer perceived critically.

Here are the most common of these myths:

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1. The performance of the intake fans should be approximately equal to the performance of the exhaust fans
2. Cold air must be admitted from below and released from above.
3. The more expansion slots and 5-inch bays a case is filled with, the worse its ventilation
4. Replacing conventional cables with round ones significantly improves the ventilation of the case.
5. The front fan significantly reduces the temperature in the case.

As a result, the struggle for ventilation of the case often comes down to installing fans of the maximum possible size and performance in all regular places, after which you pick up a drill (hacksaw, jigsaw, chisel, sledgehammer, grinder, autogen - underline as necessary :-), and fans stuck in unusual places. After this, for greater effect, a pair of fans are added inside the case - usually to blow over the video card and hard drive.

It’s better not to talk about the time, effort and money spent on all this. True, the result is usually not bad, but the noise emitted by this “battery” at full speed goes beyond all imaginable limits, and it sucks dust at the speed of a vacuum cleaner. As a result, the body soon begins to become overgrown with fenbass and reobass, becoming similar to an average mixing console. And the process of starting the game, instead of simply clicking the mouse, now resembles preparing for the takeoff of an airliner - you must remember to turn up the speed on all these fans. In this article I will try to show how you can achieve a similar effect with little blood.

Running diagonally

All mass-produced cases can be divided into three types - desktop, tower with top (horizontal) power supply and tower with side (vertical) power supply. The last two occupy the main market share. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages, but the third type is considered the worst in terms of ventilation - here the processor ends up in a windproof “pocket” next to the power supply, and it is quite difficult to organize the supply of fresh air there.

Cooler(from the English cooler) - literally translated as cooler. Essentially, it is a device designed to cool the heating element of the computer (most often the central processor). The cooler is a metal radiator with a fan that drives air through it. Most often, a fan in a computer system unit is called a cooler. This is not entirely correct. A fan is a fan, and a cooler is precisely a device (a radiator with a fan) that cools a specific element (for example, a processor).

Fans installed in the case system unit computer, provide general ventilation in the case, the entry of cold air and the removal of hot air to the outside. This results in a general decrease in temperature inside the housing.

A cooler, unlike case fans, provides local cooling of a specific element that gets very hot. The cooler is most often located on the central processor and video card. After all, the video processor heats up no less than the CPU, and sometimes the load on it is much greater, for example, during a game.

The power supply also contains a fan, which simultaneously serves both to cool the heating elements in the power supply, as it blows air through it, and for general ventilation inside the computer. In the simplest version of a PC cooling system, it is the fan inside the power supply that provides air ventilation inside the entire case.
Helpful advice:
At least occasionally check the temperature of your PC components. This will help avoid many unnecessary problems. Now there are many free programs for this. For example, . Working temperature The temperature of the processor should not exceed 75 degrees; the temperature of the video card largely depends on the power of the model. For expensive cards, 90-100 degrees can be considered normal temperature. Optimal temperature for hard drive– 30-45 degrees.

In which direction should the fans in the case spin?

So, let's look at the computer ventilation and cooling scheme. After all, many beginners, when assembling a computer on their own, have the question “Where should the fan blow” or “Which direction should the cooler spin?” In fact, this is really important, because properly organized ventilation inside the computer is the key to its reliable operation.

Cold air is supplied to the housing from the front lower part (1). This must also be taken into account when cleaning your computer from dust. It is imperative to vacuum the area where air is sucked into the computer. The air flow gradually heats up and in the upper rear part of the case the already hot air is blown out through the power supply (2).

In the case of a large number of heating elements inside the case (for example, a powerful video card or several video cards, a large number hard drives etc.) or a small amount of free space inside the case to increase air flow and improve cooling efficiency, install additional fans. It is better to install fans with a larger diameter. They provide more air flow at lower speeds, and are therefore more efficient and quieter than fans with a smaller diameter.

When installing fans, consider the direction in which they blow. Otherwise, you can not only not improve the cooling of your computer, but also worsen it. If you have a large number of hard drives, or if you have drives operating at high speeds (from 7200 rpm), you should install an additional fan in the front part of the case (3) so that it blows hard disks.

If there are a large number of heating elements (a powerful video card, several video cards, a large number of cards installed in the computer) or if there is not enough free space inside the case, it is recommended to install an additional fan in the upper rear part of the case (4). This fan should blow air outside. This will increase the air flow passing through the case and cooling all internal components of the computer. Do not install the rear fan so that it blows inside the case! This will disrupt normal circulation inside the PC. On some cases it is possible to install a fan on the side cover. In this case, the fan should spin so that it sucks air inside the case. Under no circumstances should it be allowed to blow it outside, otherwise the upper part of the computer, in particular the power supply, motherboard and processor, will not be sufficiently cooled.

Which direction should the fan on the cooler blow?

I repeat that the cooler is designed for local cooling of a specific element. Therefore, the overall air circulation in the housing is not taken into account here. The fan on the cooler should blow air through the radiator, thereby cooling it. That is, the fan on the processor cooler should blow towards the processor.

On some cooler models, the fan is installed on a remote radiator. In this case, it is better to install it so that the air flow is directed towards the rear wall of the case or upward towards the power supply.

On most powerful video cards, the cooler consists of a radiator and an impeller, which does not blow air inward from above, but drives it in a circle. That is, in this case, air is sucked in through one half of the radiator and blown out through the other.

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Ventilation of buildings - myths and reality

kv1 01/06/2004 01:31 | print version | archive

This work was submitted to our "unlimited" article competition.

Cooling various components is one of the favorite topics of overclockers (though not only them). Good ventilation of the case is of great importance here - after all, by reducing the temperature in it by at least a couple of degrees, we will reduce the temperature of all the elements inside by the same amount. Unfortunately, I have not yet come across a more or less accurate method for calculating housing ventilation. But in abundance, general recommendations wander from article to article, which from frequent use have become bronzed and are no longer perceived critically.

Here are the most common of these myths:

1. The performance of the intake fans should be approximately equal to the performance of the exhaust fans
2. Cold air must be admitted from below and released from above.
3. The more expansion slots and 5-inch bays a case is filled with, the worse its ventilation
4. Replacing conventional cables with round ones significantly improves the ventilation of the case.
5. The front fan significantly reduces the temperature in the case.

As a result, the struggle for ventilation of the case often comes down to installing fans of the maximum possible size and performance in all regular places, after which you pick up a drill (hacksaw, jigsaw, chisel, sledgehammer, grinder, autogen - underline as necessary :-), and fans stuck in unusual places. After this, for greater effect, a pair of fans are added inside the case - usually to blow over the video card and hard drive.

It’s better not to talk about the time, effort and money spent on all this. True, the result is usually not bad, but the noise emitted by this “battery” at full speed goes beyond all imaginable limits, and it sucks dust at the speed of a vacuum cleaner. As a result, the body soon begins to become overgrown with fenbass and reobass, becoming similar to an average mixing console. And the process of starting the game, instead of simply clicking the mouse, now resembles preparing for the takeoff of an airliner - you must remember to turn up the speed on all these fans. In this article I will try to show how you can achieve a similar effect with little blood.

Running diagonally

All mass-produced cases can be divided into three types - desktop, tower with top (horizontal) power supply and tower with side (vertical) power supply. The last two occupy the main market share. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages, but the third type is considered the worst in terms of ventilation - here the processor ends up in a windproof “pocket” next to the power supply, and it is quite difficult to organize the supply of fresh air there.

The general principles of ventilation are quite simple. Firstly, fans should not interfere with natural convection (from bottom to top), but help it. Secondly, it is undesirable to have windproof stagnant zones, especially in places where natural convection is difficult (primarily the lower surfaces horizontal elements). Thirdly, the greater the volume of air pumped through the housing, the smaller the temperature difference in it compared to the “outboard” air. Fourthly, the flow really does not like various “tricks” - changes in direction, narrowing-expansion, etc.

How does air exchange occur? Let's say a fan pumps air into the case, and the pressure in it increases. The dependence of flow rate on pressure is called the fan operating characteristic. The higher the pressure, the less air the fan will pump in and the more air will come out through the vents. At some point, the amount of air pumped in will equal the amount of air coming out, and the pressure will not increase further. The larger the area of ​​the ventilation holes, the lower the pressure this will happen and the better the ventilation will be. That's why simple magnification Sometimes the area of ​​these holes “without noise and dust” can be achieved more than by installing additional fans. But what will change if the fan does not blow in, but blows air out of the case? Only the direction of the flow will change, the flow rate will remain the same.

“Classical” options for organizing ventilation of a case with an upper power supply are shown in Fig. 1-3. Actually, these are actually three varieties of the same method, when the air flows diagonally across the body (from the front lower corner to the rear upper corner). Windproof areas are shown in red. The resistance to the flow does not depend in any way on how densely they are filled - it still passes by them. Pay attention to the lower zone where the video card is located - one of the most critical computer components to overheating. Installing a front fan allows you to supply some fresh air to it (and at the same time to the south bridge), lowering the temperature by a couple of degrees. True, in this case, the hard drive ends up “on the sidelines” (if it is installed in its normal place). Figure 4 shows why this happens. Here is a schematic representation of the air flow through the fan (the darker color corresponds to higher speed). From the suction side, air enters evenly from all sides, while its speed decreases rapidly as it moves away from the fan. On the discharge side, the “range” of the air flow is noticeably greater, but only along the axis - an unblown zone is formed to the side of it. The same “aerodynamic shadow” is obtained behind the fan hub, but it quickly disappears.

To illustrate, I will give an example from life. Looking for the best way cooling my desktop, I turned the fan in the power supply to blow. In theory, this should improve the cooling of the power supply - after all, now it is blown with fresh air, and not used air from the case. However, the PSU temperature sensor showed exactly the opposite - the temperature increased by 2 degrees! How could this happen? The answer is simple - the board with the sensor is installed away from the fan and therefore ends up in the aerodynamic shadow. Since some other elements were in this shadow along with the temperature sensor, the status quo was restored to avoid their failure.

Criterion of truth

Now let's move from theory to practice. Our main task is to increase the area of ​​the ventilation holes, preferably quickly and without the use of plumbing tools. Their area should be at least equal to the effective area of ​​the fan (that is, the area swept by the blades), and it is better to exceed it by one and a half times. For example, for an 80mm fan the effective area is approximately 33 sq.cm. If there are several fans and they all work for exhaust (or, conversely, all for blowing), their effective area is added up. This measure is especially relevant for cases of older designs, which still remember the Pentium-2 and nevertheless continue to be produced (and sold) until the dies are completely worn out.

My Codegen desktop, which has already survived three motherboards, is one of these “veterans”. As a “convenience”, it has a place under a 90 mm front fan, which, according to the designers, should suck air through a slot at the bottom of the front panel with an area of ​​only 5 square meters. see, and symbolic holes with a diameter of 1.5 mm opposite it (later I drilled them in a checkerboard pattern to 4 mm - it became even more beautiful). Of course, the hull is not a submarine; air will be sucked in through other small cracks and leaks, the exact accounting of which is impossible. But still, ventilation in normal mode resembles running in a gas mask.

Computer configuration during testing:

• CPU Athlon T-red-B 1.6v.
• X11, Evercool ND15-715 cooler connected via 3-pos. switch (second speed used, 2700 rpm)
• M/b Epox 8RDA3, bridge airflow disabled
• video Asus 8440 Deluxe (GF4ti4400), act. The cooler covers the chip and memory.
• 512 Mb RAM Hynix
• HDD Samsung 7200 rpm
• CD-ROM, FDD, Rack container
• Modem
• TV/capture card Flyvideo
• PSU Codegen 250w

Total power (without power supply) - about 180 W The temperature of the processor was measured through Sandra, the video cards - using the built-in sensors through SmartDoctor, in the case under the top cover above the processor (don't forget - it's a desktop case) there was an external sensor of an electronic thermometer, the second sensor of this thermometer measured the temperature in the room. The results were then normalized to external temperature

23 degrees. The system was loaded by running the 3DMark2001SE game test cycle. In the initial state, the temperature in the case was 15 degrees higher than the external temperature, the temperature of the video card (chip/memory) was higher by 55/38 degrees, and the processor by 39 degrees. For comparison, measurements were carried out with open lid

First, let's try to go the traditional route. What is the first thought that comes to mind when looking at this building? “Since there is a hole for the fan, there must be at least something there” (quite like “The Golden Calf”). Well, let's put it on. What is the result? The temperature sensor in the case did not respond to our manipulations at all, the processor temperature dropped by 1 degree, and the video card by 4-5 degrees (by the way, another traditional step gave approximately the same result - installing the Gembird SB-A blower next to the video card). Actually, this is where the “traditional path” ends.

Now let's return everything to the initial state and let's go the other way - pull out the two plugs for the expansion slots next to the video card. This kills two birds with one stone: a new “hole” appears for ventilation of the case and the stagnation zone near the video card is eliminated. In addition, we will break out the protective “comb” at the front air intake (fortunately, it is at the bottom and is still not visible) - its area will triple, and the total size of the ventilation holes will be 45 square meters. cm.

The result was not long in coming - the temperature in the case dropped by two degrees, and the video card pleased us even more, immediately dropping 9 degrees on the chip and 7 degrees on the memory. Agree, a good result, and completely free. This option can be recommended for cards with a passive cooler as an alternative to installing a fan. What if this is not enough? Adding a front blower fan leads to a paradoxical result - the temperature of both the case and the video card... increases! A little, just one degree, but nevertheless... This is explained simply - now more air enters the case through the front hole and less through the back, past the video card.

What if you put it on blower? This is a completely different matter. Both fans (in the power supply and the additional one) are now turned on in parallel, their costs are added up, and here is the result - the video card “cooled” another 3-4 degrees, and the overall temperature drop compared to the original version was 12 degrees for the video chip, 10 degrees for video memory and 5 degrees in the case (and, accordingly, in the processor). Please note that the video card is cooler here than in an open case! Expenses were limited to the purchase of one medium-power case fan.

Finally, the last option, “extreme” - all three fans (BP, front and blower) are blown out, additionally we open another slot at the back. The blower was installed in the lower (of two) five-inch compartments instead of the removed Rack container. The results are that the processor has cooled down by 4 degrees compared to the previous version (and is now the same 4 degrees hotter than itself in an open case), and the video card has dropped another couple of degrees. True, the temperature sensor in the case did not show any decrease - cold air passes below it, since additional fans take air not from above, but from the middle of the case. The overall results are summarized in a table. It shows the absolute temperature of the components, normalized to 23 degrees in the room.

From bottom to top, obliquely

Now that we have understood and tested in practice general principles effective ventilation, we apply them to the most common case - a tower with an upper power supply.

Figure 6 shows the most effective method cooling such a case. The additional fan on the rear wall actually provides the same airflow as in my last experiment. Since almost half of the heat is generated by the processor, it makes sense to supply some of the cold air directly to the area where it operates. This is done through a free three-inch or five-inch compartment on the front wall - both of its plugs (plastic and metal) are removed, and how to decorate the resulting hole is a matter of skill and imagination. In the simplest case, you can buy a socket with a couple of small fans (which you can immediately remove, they are of no use), since such “bells and whistles” for five-inch bays are available in many varieties - from a regular grille to panels with a built-in electronic indicator, USB ports or fanbuses (although they have a smaller grille area).

Good ventilation is also ensured by installing a Rack container. Please note that all this equipment must be placed in the lowest compartment. The choice of a specific option depends on what needs to be “frozen” first. If the processor or memory overheats, you need to make larger holes, and if you have a video card, you can do without them altogether, but open more slots at the bottom. The total area of ​​the holes should be at least 70-80 square meters. see depending on the size of the fans. For reference: the area of ​​one slot hole is 13 square meters. cm., open three-inch compartment - 30 sq. cm, five-inch - 15-30 sq. see with the above decorative grille and 60 sq. cm for fully open. Another 10-15 sq. see Removing the plugs from the holes for the ports on the rear wall can help. Oh yes, I almost forgot, there is also a standard air intake at the bottom of the front panel with an area of ​​5-30 square meters. see, and some cases also have holes in the side walls.

If there is a standard hole for a fan on the top panel, it would be a sin not to use it. Put something there that isn't too powerful to blow. If there is no such hole, there is no need to cut it. It is better to buy a special blower and install it in the top 5-inch compartment (Fig. 7). This will be especially useful for those who, for some reason, do not have a hole for an additional fan under the power supply or it is used for direct cooling of the processor. But in this option, it is worth making an air duct that directs fresh air from the lower five- or three-inch compartment to the processor area. Without it, a significant part of this flow may immediately go into the blower, without capturing enough heat along the way.

In Fig. Figure 8 shows a rather exotic circuit with a bottom fan operating as a blower. It is worse than the previous two and can only be used as a last resort, when you first need to cool the video card. In fact, this circuit provides two independent flows - the first (lower, from the back wall to the front) cools the video card, expansion cards and south bridge, and the second (from the front wall to the back) cools the upper half of the case. The advantages of this scheme are that the total exhaust performance of the fans increases, a significant part of the hot air from the video card is immediately removed outside, and the overall resistance to flow in the case is lower.

But there are also significant drawbacks. The main one is that, for the sake of design, the lower holes in the front wall through which air is blown usually have an area much smaller than the effective area of ​​​​the front fan. In addition, the flow has to change direction twice, which it really doesn’t like. The result is the same “running in a gas mask” - for example, if the hole in the housing is half as large as that of the fan, the performance of the latter also drops by about half, and this does not take into account the back pressure in the housing. But the noise, on the contrary, will be greater - leaking through narrow cracks, small holes, intricate “squiggles” and other design delights in the front panel, the air flow may produce a whistle that is not at all artistic. In addition, the noise of the front fan (unlike the rear one) is not shielded by the case.

You can increase the efficiency of the front fan by introducing additional air into the cavity between the front panel and the metal front wall of the case. To do this, let's go along the beaten path - take out the plastic (this time only plastic!) plug of the lower three-inch compartment. But we also need to supply cold air to the upper half of the body, and also from the front. These flows must be separated using a partition under the lower five-inch compartment.

Now let's look at the flow movement in the housing. In the first and second schemes, the main flow moves from bottom to top. Flow resistance is determined by the narrowest point in its path. In this case, this is a section at the level of the video card: it itself occupies a good half of the case, and on the other side there is a hard drive with a protruding cable. Since the video card cannot be moved to another location, all that remains is to rearrange the hard drive. It can be lowered down or placed in one of the 5-inch compartments (preferably the one used as an air intake). In both cases, the hard drive will have excellent airflow, which will have a beneficial effect on its health. However, the narrowest point in the flow path is actually not here, but at the entrance to the body - there its speed is an order of magnitude greater, and the aerodynamic losses are proportional to the square of the speed. Therefore, “slicking” and laying down the trains gives practically nothing from the point of view of air exchange.

I hear and hear sarcastic voices - but what about the horror stories about dust, which, when all the fans are set to blow out, will supposedly be sucked in in wild quantities through CD-ROM and FDD? I answer. Air follows the path of least resistance and, with good ventilation, will not flow into narrow cracks when there are large windows nearby. Yes, and the standard ventilation system, let me remind you, works as a blower, and in branded cases and laptops too (and there are no fools sitting there, as some colleagues like to say when other arguments run out :-)

In conclusion, let’s say a few words about towers with a side power supply. Despite the large number of holes located in the most unexpected places, the ventilation of these cases is disgusting. If the airflow of the video card can still be improved in the traditional way (by opening adjacent slots), then you will have to tinker with the processor. To properly blow through its “pocket,” you need to somehow remove hot air from there. The most effective way is to insert a blow-out fan into the top panel, but this is very labor-intensive. So let's try alternative ways. In InWin cases, there are ventilation holes at the top of the rear wall of unknown purpose - warm air will not escape from there, because... There is a vacuum in the case from the power supply fan, and the supply of cold air right up to the ceiling is ineffective. To prevent them from disappearing, put the blower there to blow. In cases where this is not available, the blower can be directed forward and connected by an air duct to an empty five-inch compartment (of course, by removing both plugs from it, Fig. 9).

Another option is to install a power supply with a powerful fan, in which air is taken only from the “pocket” side. There are power supplies on sale that have a 120 mm fan on the side wall - in theory, this should be enough for good ventilation. You can do the opposite - use a fan or blower to supply fresh air through the air duct into this area in the hope that the jet will “reach” the unventilated corners. In general, these buildings provide an immense field for experimentation.

There are still a few myths about choosing fans... but this issue deserves a separate article.

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RX 580 - super prices and super availability at XPERT.RU It's no secret that when a computer is running, all of its electronic components warm up. Some elements heat up quite noticeably. Processor, video card, northern and south bridges– the hottest elements of the system unit. Even with normal computer idle time, their temperature can reach 50-60 degrees Celsius. But if the system unit is not periodically cleaned of dust, then the heating of the main components of the computer becomes even greater. Increased heating leads to constant computer freezes, fans run at high speeds, which leads to annoying noise. Overheating is generally dangerous and leads to an emergency shutdown of the computer.

Therefore, the main problem of the entire electronic part computer technology– this is proper cooling and effective heat removal. The vast majority of computers, both industrial and home, use heat removal air cooling. It gained its popularity due to its simplicity and low cost. The principle of this type of cooling is as follows. All the heat from the heated elements is transferred to the surrounding air, and the hot air, in turn, is removed from the system unit case using fans. To increase heat transfer and cooling efficiency, the hottest components are equipped with copper or aluminum radiators with fans installed on them.

But the fact that heat removal occurs due to air movement does not mean at all that the more fans are installed, the better the cooling will be overall. Several incorrectly installed fans can do much more harm than solve the problem of overheating, when one correctly installed fan will solve this problem very effectively.

Selecting additional fans.

Fans should be selected in the largest size that suits you. For standard cases this size is 80x80mm. But quite often (especially in Lately) fans of sizes 92x92 and 120x120 mm can be installed in cases. With the same electrical characteristics a larger fan will be much quieter.

Try to buy fans with more blades - they are also quieter. Pay attention to the stickers - they indicate the noise level. If the motherboard has 4-pin connectors for powering coolers, then buy four-wire fans. They are very quiet, and their automatic speed control range is quite wide.

Between fans receiving power from the power supply through Molex connector and running from the motherboard, definitely choose the second option.

There are fans on sale with real ball bearings - this is the best option in terms of durability.

Installation of additional fans.

There are no additional fans in the case.

This is the standard layout for almost all computers sold in stores. All the hot air rises to the top of the computer and is exhausted outside by the fan in the power supply.

The big disadvantage of this type of cooling is that all the heated air passes through the power supply, heating it even more. And therefore, it is the power supply of such computers that most often breaks down. Also, all the cold air is not sucked in in a controlled manner, but from all the cracks of the housing, which only reduces the efficiency of heat transfer. Another disadvantage is the thin air produced by this type of cooling, which leads to the accumulation of dust inside the case. But still, it's better than incorrect installation additional fans.

One fan on the rear wall of the case.

This method is used more out of desperation, since the case has only one place to install an additional cooler - on the back wall under the power supply. In order to reduce the amount of hot air passing through the power supply, install one fan that works to “blow” out of the case.

Most of the heated air from the motherboard, processor, video card, and hard drives exits through the additional fan. And the power supply heats up significantly less. Also, the overall flow of moving air increases. But the rarefaction increases, so dust will accumulate even more.

Additional front fan in the case.

When the case has only one seat on the front of the case, or there is no possibility of turning on two fans at once (there is nowhere to connect), then this is the most ideal option for you. It is necessary to install one fan on the front part of the case.

The fan must be installed opposite the hard drives. It would be more correct to write that the hard drives should be placed opposite the fan. This way, the cold incoming air will immediately blow over them. This installation is much more effective than the previous one. A directed air flow is created. The vacuum inside the computer decreases - dust does not linger. When additional coolers are powered from the motherboard, the overall noise is reduced as the fan speeds are reduced.

Installing two fans in the case.

Most effective method installing fans for additional cooling of the system unit. A fan is installed on the front wall of the case for “blowing”, and on the rear wall – for “blowing”:

A powerful, constant air flow is created. The power supply operates without overheating, since heated air is removed by a fan installed under it. If a power supply with adjustable fan speed is installed, the overall noise will be noticeably reduced, and more importantly, the pressure inside the case will be equalized. Dust will not settle.

Incorrect installation of fans.

One rear fan is set to "injection".

A closed air ring is created between the power supply and the additional fan. Some of the hot air from the power supply is immediately sucked back inside. At the same time, there is no air movement in the lower part of the system unit, and therefore cooling is ineffective.

One front fan is set to “exhaust”.

If you install only one front cooler and it works as a blower, then you end up with very low pressure inside the case and ineffective cooling of the computer. Moreover, due to the reduced pressure, the fans themselves will be overloaded, since they will have to overcome the back pressure of the air. The computer components will heat up, resulting in increased operating noise as the fan speeds increase.

The rear fan is for “blowing”, and the front fan is for “blowing”.

An air short circuit is created between the power supply and the rear fan. The air in the area of ​​the central processor works in a circle.

The front fan tries to “lower” the hot air against the natural convection rise, working under increased load and creating a vacuum in the case.

Two additional coolers are set to “blowing”.

An air short circuit is created in the upper part of the housing.

In this case, the effect of the incoming cold air is felt only for the hard drives, since it then enters the oncoming flow from the rear fan. Excessive pressure is created inside the case, which complicates the operation of additional fans.

Two additional coolers operate as a blower.

The most severe operating mode of the cooling system.

There is reduced air pressure inside the case; all case fans and inside the power supply operate under reverse suction pressure. There is not enough air movement inside the air, and, therefore, all components work overheating.

These are, in principle, all the main points that will help you in organizing correct system ventilation of your personal computer. If there is a special plastic corrugation on the side cover of the case, use it to supply cold air to central processor. All other installation issues are resolved depending on the structure of the case. We will be glad if you write your thoughts on this matter in the comments to the article.

A computer is a complex device that includes a large number of components that must work smoothly. Computer fans are an essential part of any computer as they help cool components by creating airflow. If your computer is overheating or you need to replace the existing fan, installing a new fan will lower the temperature and make your computer quieter.

Steps

Check your computer case specifications. There are two main sizes of computer fans: 80mm and 120mm. The case can support other sizes, such as 60mm or 140mm. If you're not sure, remove one of the fans and take it to a computer store to find out its size (or measure the size yourself).

• Today, 120mm fans are used in most cases.
• If you are replacing an old fan with a new one, consider whether the new fan will produce the amount of airflow needed to cool a particular component (this is beyond the scope of this article). Some components, such as the graphics card and processor, require coolers (this is a fan that directs air flow to the heatsink).

Look at the computer case. Find places where you can install additional fans. Typically, fans can be installed on the back, side, top, and front of the case. Each case has its own fan configuration and limits the maximum number of fans.

Choose large fans (if you can). If your case can accommodate different sized fans, larger fans are always preferable to small ones. 120mm fans are significantly quieter and also produce more airflow, making them much more efficient.

Compare different fans. To do this, read their specifications and reviews about them. Look for fans that are reliable and quiet. Fans are generally inexpensive, and you can save money by purchasing 4 fans at a time. Here are the most popular fan manufacturers:

• Cooler Master
• Evercool
• Deep Cool
• Corsair
• Thermaltake

1. Understand the efficiency of the air cooling system. Fans don't just supply air to computer components (it's not the most efficient way to cool a computer). Fans must create air flow inside the case - drawing in cold air and expelling hot air.

   Examine the fan. Fans create air flow in one direction, indicated by an arrow (indicated on the fan housing). Look at the new fan housing and find the arrow on it; it indicates the direction of air flow. If there is no arrow, examine the sticker on the fan motor. The air flow is usually directed towards such a sticker.

2. Install fans to create proper air flow. To do this, install fans to blow in and out air. It is better to install more fans for exhaust than for injection to create something like a vacuum inside the case. This effect will cause cold air to enter the housing from any opening.

   • Back panel. The power supply fan located at the rear panel of the case blows air. Therefore, install 1-2 more fans on back panel, which will work for blowing.
   • Front Panel. Install one fan on it that will blow air. You can install a second fan in the hard drive bay (if possible).
   • Side panel. Install a fan on it that will blow out air. Most cases only allow one side fan.
   • Top panel. The fan on this panel should be blowing. Don't think it needs to be set to blow because hot air rises - this will simply result in too many blow fans and not enough blow fans.

Which direction should it blow? Properly organized ventilation inside a computer is the key to its reliable operation. General diagram of the direction of air flow in a computer case:

The most common option for almost all finished computers is that all hot air is exhausted by a fan in the power supply to the outside.

The most important parts of the system are usually the hottest. Therefore, so that the operation of the entire system is not at risk, it is necessary to take care of cooling. This article will discuss how to install a cooler on a processor.

Cooling options

The processor is one of the hottest parts of the system unit, and if it is not cooled, it will burn out in a matter of minutes. The cooler for the system unit is placed directly on it. Cooling varies depending on how much powerful processor installed on the system.

There are two types of cooling - active and passive.

Passive cooling is that it is presented in the form of a simple radiator that removes heat from the processor. This type of cooling does not require much energy and is cheap, and also does not make as much noise as fans.

The active type of cooling implies the presence of a fan next to the radiator. Sometimes such coolers have markings on the direction of air flow, which makes it possible to decide which direction to place the cooler on the processor.

Cooling system composition

The cooling system includes two components - a fan and a radiator. Copper or aluminum tubes conduct heat away from the processor towards the heatsinks, and the heatsinks are cooled by a fan or fans. Of course, there is noise from them, but within acceptable limits.

First you need to make sure that the processor is securely fastened in the socket. This is followed by cleaning the processor and radiator at the point of contact so that the contact between them is not disturbed by anything. A disposable alcohol wipe is ideal for these purposes, as it does not contain lint and ensures complete cleanliness afterward.

The next step for AMD is to apply thermal paste. This procedure is necessary because the thermal paste ensures full contact between the processor and the heatsink, which significantly improves heat dissipation. There is no need to apply the paste thickly; it is enough to smear it to such an extent that the outline of the marking on the processor is visible.

Manufacturers who make cooling for AMD processors, try to stick to one standard, which uses a simple latch to secure the cooler to the processor. After the cooler has been fixed, you need to connect its power to the motherboard.

You should first consider cooling options before installing a cooler on your Intel processor. The cooler is mounted only on the motherboard in a horizontal position. Also, do not forget about the reinforcing plate that is included in the kit.

Some processors already come with a cooler, called a box cooler. This type of cooler does not require special installation knowledge. You need to find the holes on the motherboard, select the appropriate position and insert the pins into the connectors. After installation, a characteristic fastening sound should appear in each pin. The last action the cooler will be connected to the motherboard.

Modern advanced systems have equally advanced processors. Such processors require a high-quality cooling system, and further there will be instructions on how to install a cooler on the processor. This time the option of installing a tower cooler is presented.

First, you should unpack and assemble the cooler according to the manual. Sometimes the cooling system is sold already assembled, then this step is eliminated.

A small amount of thermal paste must be applied to the installed processor. There is no need to spread it, as the paste will be evenly distributed when the cooler is installed.

To fix the base on the motherboard, it is better to look at the manual, as different models can be attached in different ways.

As with many cooler models, fans should have an image indicating the direction of the blades. These markers will help you decide which way to place the cooler on the processor so that the air flow is directed towards the back wall of the case.

After options were presented on how to properly install a cooler on a processor different manufacturers, you can figure out how to remove it.

The first step is to turn off the power to the cooler, and then unscrew the bolts with a screwdriver. If the fan is secured with latches, you can simply pull out the fan by moving the securing part.

If the cooler is difficult to dismantle, this means that the thermal paste inside has dried out. To get rid of this, you need to slightly warm up the problem area. In this case, a regular hairdryer works well.

Before you figure out how to install a cooler on a processor, you need to select it. Many users who are inexperienced with computer parts make many mistakes, which will be presented below.

First thing to know before purchasing new system cooling is the socket that supports the processor. The fact is that the radiator must fit tightly and accurately to the processor, otherwise the cooling will not be so effective.

You should not skimp when it comes to cooling, as this affects the lifespan of not only the processor, but the entire system.

No one has canceled thrift stores and second-hand purchases, so before purchasing a used cooler, it is worth testing it on site and checking the package contents.

When installing, do not forget about the reinforcing plate, which is attached to the back of the motherboard. She is needed for stable operation cooler.

As mentioned earlier, thermal paste is a good thing, but you should not overdo it, as this will negatively affect the performance of the processor. But a deficiency can also lead to overheating.

Before purchasing, you should also inspect the power connector for the processor cooler. They are designed for three and four contacts. Coolers with 3 contacts constantly operate at maximum fan speed. Coolers with 4 contacts do not have this problem, since the additional contact makes it possible to regulate the fan speed.

Every processor, especially modern ones, needs active cooling. Now the most popular and reliable solution is to install a processor cooler on the motherboard. They come in different sizes and, accordingly, different powers, consuming a certain amount of energy. In this article we will not go into details, but will look at mounting and removing the processor cooler from the motherboard.

When assembling your system, you need to install a processor cooler, and if you need to replace the CPU, then the cooling needs to be removed. There is nothing complicated in these tasks, you just need to follow the instructions and do everything carefully so as not to damage the components. Let's take a closer look at installing and removing coolers.

Installing an AMD cooler

Coolers from AMD are equipped with a unique mount; therefore, the mounting process is also slightly different from others. It's easy to do; you just need to follow a few simple steps:

Installing an Intel Cooler

The boxed version of the Intel processor already comes with proprietary cooling. The mounting method is slightly different from that discussed above, but there is no fundamental difference. These coolers are mounted with clamps in special grooves on the motherboard. Simply select the appropriate location and insert the pins into the connectors one at a time until you hear a characteristic click.

It remains to connect the power as described above. Please note that Intel coolers also come with thermal paste, so be careful when unpacking.

Installing a tower cooler

If the standard cooling capacity is not sufficient to provide normal operation CPU, you will need to install a tower cooler. They are usually more powerful due to larger fans and the presence of several heat pipes. Installation of such a part is required only for the sake of a powerful and expensive processor. Let's look at the steps of mounting a tower CPU cooler in detail:

This completes the process of installing the tower cooler. We once again recommend studying the design of the motherboard and installing all the parts in such an order that they do not interfere when trying to mount other components.

How to remove a CPU cooler

If you need to repair, replace the processor, or apply new thermal paste, you always first need to remove the installed cooling. This task very simple - the user must unscrew the screws or release the pins. Before this, you need to disconnect the system unit from the power supply and pull out the CPU_FAN cord. Read more about dismantling the processor cooler in our article.

Today we examined in detail the topic of mounting and removing a processor cooler using latches or screws from the motherboard. By following the instructions above, you can easily complete all the steps yourself, it is only important to do everything carefully and accurately.